Delectable kebabs, fragrant biryani, and airy, cloud-like desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has forever been a dream destination for epicures, with locals and visitors equally swearing by its exquisite cuisine.
A Global Honor
In a recent announcement, UNESCO honored it as a UNESCO Creative City for Gastronomy – adding it to a exclusive roster of international urban centers and igniting hopes that it will spotlight Lucknow's exceptional food. With this title, it joins a worldwide network of more than four hundred urban centers across more than 100 countries committed to promoting "creativity as a driver of city development that is sustainable".
The accolade "is a testament to its centuries-old food heritage and lively gastronomic culture," as stated by a representative from Unesco's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is merely the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was selected in 2019 – to earn a spot in this prestigious list of seventy urban centers around the world.
A City Defined by Food
The recognition for this time-honored city is no surprise to its inhabitants or avid food lovers. Many share the sentiment that it is "better late than never".
With the UNESCO designation, this adored, chaotic, and vibrant city – the capital of India's most populous state – is at last in the global gaze for what has consistently shaped its soul: an unparalleled devotion for food.
"'The day's menu, the method of preparation' is a constant discussion from morning until going to bed in many homes," notes a local cultural expert. "And you are often assessed by the excellence of food that comes out of your kitchen."
An Imperial Food Tradition
The City of the Nawabs – as it's often referred to after its 18th and 19th Century wealthy Muslim rulers – is noted for its succulent kebabs and a singular take on biryani that were created, perfected, and raised to sublime levels in their opulent kitchens.
These kitchens of the nobility were centers of food experimentation, blending Persian and local Indian styles to create what became known as the cuisine of Awadh.
It was during this time that Lucknow's most famous kebabs were developed. The story goes that the mutton galouti was devised to cater to an elderly nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His culinary artists ground the meat with raw papaya, saffron, and a blend of spices and made it so fine that it needed no chewing.
But arguably the greatest contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a gentle, leisurely heat, with the pot's lid securely closed with dough.
Beyond Kebabs and Biryani
In addition to the famous kebabs and biryani, the cooks also built up a repertoire of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a rich bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not just about kebabs and biryani – the region is also a haven for vegetarians.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine not only celebrates seasonal produce but also provides the city its exquisitely crafted Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – tangy fried snacks.
Hidden Gems and Legacy Eateries
Nearly on every corner, there are small establishments and kiosks – little-known delights that are immensely favored by the locals.
In the heart of the city of Hazratganj, large gatherings start assembling from 5 am at a legendary tea stall to get a steaming cup of spiced tea with milk, served in kulhads, along with pillowy soft buns lathered with freshly churned white butter.
In the morning, one can head to a unpretentious joint located in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was established, the place is still highly popular for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Safeguarding a Culinary Heritage
The city also offers special treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a cloud-like dessert available in the winter. The method of making it is scientific and involved. The cook whisks the milk and then sets it out at night, allowing the dew to give it its amazing light consistency.
On crisp mornings, street vendors can be seen in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. Many but say that their younger generation are unwilling to learn the art.
A renowned chef from Lucknow has often said that the city's immense food legacy places it at the very pinnacle of the Indian street food experience. The significant impact from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will be realized only if Lucknow can now create awareness about its hidden eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow comes with a history – influenced by multi-generational food businesses, from modest street carts to bustling restaurants, and secret family recipes.
The worldwide honor, it is believed, will inspire more people globally to discover these narratives and travel to the city to delight in the gastronomic treasures of Lucknow.
